Una(s) Noche(s) en Medellín

A Travel Guide and First Impressions of the City of Eternal Spring

Graphics By: Nelly Ontiveros Cervantes

Medellín, the city of eternal spring, captured me with its charm, lush sights, comforting food, and cordial people. Though my stay was short, the essence and culture of Medellín will stay with me for a long time.

Here, I share my five-day itinerary along with a few tips, history bites, and food highlights.

DAY 1

Hungry for art, I headed to El Museo de Antioquia, which houses paintings and sculptures from Colombian artist Fernando Botero. My artsy journey started when I arrived at La Plaza Botero, an outdoor plaza showcasing sculptures by the artist. Once inside the museum, I was fascinated by the collection and Botero’s style that exaggerates volume and proportions.

The museum has three floors, where you’ll find a variety of permanent and temporary exhibits, and a nice courtyard where you can take in the beauty of this American Art Deco building, often regarded as an architectural masterpiece. For foreigners, admission tickets cost 18,000 COP (4.75 USD), and you can buy them at the door.

A few minutes from the museum is El Palacio Nacional shopping center. This five-story building hosts more than 40 galleries displaying sculptures, paintings, and drawings from both renowned and independent artists. Entrance is free, and since it's a mall, you can also enjoy the clothing stores and food vendors.

Traveler’s tip: Steer clear of tours that glorify criminal figures like Pablo Escobar and his allies from the Medellín Cartel. If you’re curious about that chapter of Medellín's history, I recommend checking out El Museo Casa de la Memoria, a place dedicated to preserving the memory and lessons of the city's armed conflict from multiple perspectives. It honors the thousands of victims of violence caused by wars between drug cartels, guerrilla groups, and paramilitary forces, and continues to serve as a place of dialogue and recovery for the community. The museum offers four exhibits focusing on conflict, peace, reconciliation, and human rights.

Food highlight

⭐Granizado: An icy drink with a texture similar to that of shaved ice, topped with syrup, juice, or coffee! I had the tangerine one at Joseph’s Coffee & Waffles. One of my favorite things about this cafe is that it offers a welcome respite from the chaos of the city center. This place is also ideal after having spent your day walking around the museum and galleries. 

DAY 2

Welcome to El Pueblito Paisa! This is a life-size replica of a traditional Colombian town from the 20th century. Inaugurated in 1978 and built with materials from the old town of El Peñol in Guatapé, this quaint pueblito is the perfect spot to enjoy traditional refreshment, snap the photos you’ll be sharing with your families, and take in the surrounding nature. This town was created with the intention of uplifting Medellín as an eco-city and its green areas.

Bonus Activity: In El Pueblito, you’ll also find the Museum of the City, focused on telling the story of Medellín's urban development and city growth.

After spending one to two hours in El Pueblito, you can head to La Comuna 13, a hillside neighborhood once considered one of Medellín's most dangerous. At the height of Pablo Escobar’s criminal reign, La Comuna 13 became a battleground for armed violence and confrontation between the army, guerrilla groups, and gangs. Today, the neighborhood tells a different story and attracts thousands of tourists every year.

With its graffiti walls, resourceful houses, and warm community, La Comuna tells a story of resilience and optimism, something that comes naturally to Colombians. I recommend booking a local guided tour to understand the context of La Comuna’s somber past. Stay clear of those who seem to glorify crime, or tours labeled “Pablo Escobar’s Tour.”

If you are curious about the history of Medellín's violence, check out the Museo Casa de la Memoria. It opened in 2012 as a museum and community house that hosts and encourages dialogue in supports of those who have suffered from the consequences of violence.

In La Comuna, you’ll get to admire breakdance performances, rappers, and massive sculptures—including Cristo Redentor Paisa, the largest 3D-printed statue in Latin America. Most of the sculptures serve as photo spots where you’ll have to pay a fee to access them. The price ranges between $10 COP and $25 COP (less than $1 USD). I went to the Pachamama statue, which was $15 COP per person.

Food highlight

⭐DELICIOUS BREAD at the Panaderia Dulce Paladar in Santa Teresita. I had the traditional rancheros eggs, arepa and cheese, and hot chocolate. I also made myself a goodie bag of Buñuelos filled with arequipe (also known as dulce de leche, a sweet, caramel-like sauce), cheese bread, and almojábanas (cornmeal-based cheese bread).

⭐Mango and Maracuya Michelada at Paradiso Paisa. An explosive and refreshing mix of tropical flavors that you’ll need to offset the heat after climbing to the top of La Comuna 13. 

Day 3

When in Colombia, I like to engage in an activity most loved by locals–-going to the mall!

I visited the popular Santafé Mall located in El Poblado. It has hundreds of stores, restaurants, a movie theater, a bowling alley, and so much more. I experienced go-karting for the first time in years at Xtreme Karts, and while I wasn’t very good at it, I enjoyed doing it with my group.

I also went to El Tesoro Shopping Park, which is just as nice as Santafé, but slightly smaller. Something I particularly liked was getting the chance to shop at stores that don’t have a physical location in the U.S., like Bershka, and from Colombian brands like Studio F, Vélez, and Koaj.

Food highlight

⭐Frozen yogurt at Pércimon, a Colombian brand of Frozen yogurt, started in Medellín. You’ll find many locations throughout the city, but if you don’t get a little sweet treat during your mall visit, did you really go to the mall? 

DAY 4

Head to Guatapé!

This picturesque town is located 2-3 hours away from Medellín by car. It’s the perfect roadtrip to connect with nature after having spent three days immersed in the big city.

Guatapé houses the Peñol-Guatapé Reservoir—whose crystal-clear lakes contrast against the mountainous range, creating the most beautiful scenery—and La Piedra del Peñol, a 220-meter (721-foot) monolith, climbable via 720 numbered steps.

Tickets to climb La Piedra del Peñol are available at the door. It took me around 25 minutes to make it to the top and enjoy of the 360 view. There are no elevators or alternative ways to go up or down. That means that by the end of your pilgrimage, you’ll have completed more than 1,440 steps on the stair master. It’s worth every drop of sweat — I promise! Just remember to wear comfortable shoes and avoid bringing heavy bags.

Guatapé’s man-made reservoir has transformed the town since its inception in the 1970s, bringing tourism, providing electricity to the surrounding areas, and changing the lives of residents, including those from the old town of El Peñol, who had to relocate after their town was submerged as part of this ambitious project.

Today, you can visit a replica of the old Peñol town to learn about its history and evolution. Tickets are available at the gate and it’s open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Traveler’s tip: I recommend spending the night in Guatapé to fully enjoy what the town has to offer. Here you can participate in watersports, ride a moto chiva, and eat and shop in the town center, where you’ll admire the famous Zocalos—the lower facade of the houses, painted with colorful and beautiful patterns.

Food highlight

⭐Obleas! You can find them almost anywhere in Medellín (and other parts of Colombia). I had mine at the top of La Piedra del Peñol, where other refreshments are also offered. The traditional sandwich-style wafer is filled with arequipe, cheese, blackberry sauce, and condensed milk. 

⭐Freshly ground coffee at Folklore Cafe, a lovely place in Guatapé that also offers a variety of desserts and savory treats. 

DAY 5

Back in Medellín!

Take a breather and then get out again!

I have a tradition of partying on my last night in a city (which is why I book my return flights in the afternoon). In the city that birthed Karol G, Maluma, and Feid, I knew I wanted to dance to reggaeton until dawn—and so I did!

I went to Oraculo in El Poblado, an LGBTQ+ club with three different dance floors: one plays pop and reggaeton, another is dedicated to techno, and another is a mix of classic Latin sounds like merengue, baladas, and salsa. I stayed on the POPerreo floor, for a mix of Shakira and Dua Lipa, followed by a full-on drag show.

Note: Medellín was the first city in Colombia to call for the LGBT liberation, and since the 1970s, social organizations and legislative change have contributed to making Medellin a friendly city for LGBT locals and visitors.

Traveler’s tip: Always be careful with your drink and of the amount of alcohol you consume—especially if you’re traveling solo and decide to join the party by yourself. Partying in a different country can be an amazing experience—and being responsible about it keeps it that way. Foreigners can be easy targets for people with bad intentions (this happens around the world), so make sure you have a safety plan in place when going out.

Food highlight 

⭐After a night out, all I wanted was breakfast and coffee. And Pergamino delivered! I loved the diversity on the menu—from the coffee they themselves produce, to the drinks they make. I had an Iced Lime Lavender Cold Brew, a combination new to me, but one I would have over and over again! I went to the location in Laureles and I haven’t stopped thinking about their courtyard and chic ambiance ever since.